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Slab hunting in Ireland

Risky Business

Feb 192016

"In the future, everyone will be world-famous for 15 minutes” - Andy Warhol In a world where social media is constantly on the hunt, ferociously devouring content every second of every day, athletes and artists alike are having to be more skilled than ever to rise to the top of the digital feed and be recognised. Their hard-earned accomplishments, measured no longer by the mere feet and creation itself, but rather by the “likes”and “views”of unknown others scrolling on screens around the globe, require either big budgets or astounding visuals, or both. Recognition and longevity are increasingly the stuff of rarity and greatness in our world of instant gratification. Sought by all, but acquired by so few, we all want more than our fifteen minutes of fame. We want to be remembered for longer; to live longer, to be heard and ultimately to get the acknowledgment we feel we deserve. But more than that, some of us want to merely live the dream. To share it and to inspire others while doing so, and to hopefully make a difference and be who we were meant to be. Matthew Bromley and Guy Macindoe are two such people - a team with a dream. One is a professional big wave surfer from South Africa, the other an upcoming artist from New Zealand behind the lens. Together they are working on producing ‘Risky Business’- a surf and travel-based movie due out later this year. Focusing on big and heavy waves of consequence and beautiful visuals, the movie highlights stunning and raw locations such as South Africa, Ireland, Tahiti and Hawaii to name a few. Born and raised on the doorstep of South Africa’s biggest waves, and having won Surfline’s coveted ‘Wave of the Winter’ in 2014 for a “once-in-a-lifetime”wave at the infamous Bonzai Pipeline, the South African knows how to travel, charge big waves and look comfortable while doing both. We caught up with Matt and G-Mac after filming at Maui’s world-renowned wave called ‘Jaws’- the benchmark of big wave surfing globally.Wow Matt, they’re calling the waves you and company caught recently at Peahi - “Jaws” on Maui some of the biggest waves ever paddled into by human hands. How have the past three weeks been in Hawaii?  It’s been the best run of big waves at Jaws in decades. A crazy mix of favourable light winds and massive swells. Every time we have flown back to Oahu for Pipeline, we see another red blob heading toward Jaws. And that means we`re back on the plane and waxing up the guns (big wave surfboards) again.  The last few weeks have been life changing. We`ve been exposed to so many huge days of surf, that we`re starting to find rhythm in the chaos, and feel more comfortable in these crazy, life-threatening situations. Yesterday was one of the best days of my life. I paddled into many waves that were bigger than I`ve ever caught before, it was pretty perfect, but extremely gnarly!